Fruit

The glory of a chess pie is its rich custard filling (long ago also used to fill tartlets called cheesecakes, hence the name). The secret to the accompanying salsa is to panfry the pineapple until it's charred, bringing out the fruit's acidic, musky qualities. And as for the last-minute drizzle of caramel sauce—how bad could that be?

Not everything Feniger serves at her restaurant is typical street food, and here's a delicious case in point. The intriguing combination of shredded brisket, diced root vegetables, and apples is based on a recipe that Feniger's grandmother Sylvia Morgan often made for family meals in Toledo, Ohio. Roasted poblano chiles, a nod to the chef’s days at Santa Monica's Border Grill, add a spark of heat, and a fried egg makes it enormously satisfying.

Sold at Mexican street stands in large, clear barrels—the better to show off their festive colors—agua frescas, or "fresh waters," can be made with all kinds of fruits and herbs, the riper the better. Here, Feniger tops a traditional cantaloupe cooler with a decorative swirl of vivid beet purée. Roasting the beet heightens its sweetness and intensifies its color.

Both ginger plants and tamarind trees grow in tropical spots around the world, including India, Asia, and Latin America, where the two seasonings are regularly used in marinades, sauces, and drinks. So it was only natural for Feniger to take some of the spicy ginger syrup she had developed for the Canton Ginger Kick and mix it with tart tamarind. The result is very fresh and very quaffable. Feniger says that when they make it at Street, they often save the tamarind pulp that's left in the sieve and add more water; that tamarind liquid will be thinner than the first batch, but it will still have enough of its signature fruity sharpness for another round.

What you find here and on page 96—aside from a striking striped presentation—is an equally beautiful expression of flavors. Because both beets and pears are at the height of their season, Lee has no desire, as he says, "to mess with them too much." He adds, "Nature trumps the ability of any chef." The ginger juice in the vinaigrette is inspired by Lee's Asian roots.

Give a grown-up, garnet-hued twist to a Halloween classic by coating apples in a red wine–infused caramel sauce.

When it comes to dessert, I am a chocoholic first and fruit-pie lover second; but after several test batches to perfect this cake, I am completely won over, and so is everyone who has tasted it. This is simply a spectacular cake—moist and light with spiced pumpkin flavor and sweet bites of coconut and pineapple. In addition, it is a snap to make. It requires two 9-inch cake pans to make the layers, but the cake itself can be mixed together with a rubber spatula and bowl. If all the cake ingredients are pre-measured and the cake pans prepared, this can be a fun kitchen project to do with children, especially since it can be made ahead and frozen.

This spinach salad speaks to all the wonderful autumnal flavors of the Pacific Northwest. The new crop of bronzed Bosc pears is piled high at the farmers' market; the hazelnuts have been harvested, shelled, and bagged for sale; and the cranberries arrive from the Long Beach, Washington, coastal bogs. I buy sweetened dried cranberries from a local producer, but they are readily available at the grocery store (Ocean Spray is a good-quality packager), found alongside raisins and other dried fruits. This salad is a snap to assemble if you buy the packaged prewashed and trimmed baby spinach.

More and more people are cooking with ground buffalo meat because it's lower in fat than beef chuck. That very asset can turn into a liability if the meat is cooked too long, so here, sautéed chopped portobello mushrooms contribute additional moistness and flavor. Don't reach for the ketchup: A crisp slaw of celery and apples in a mustardy dressing is a piquant surprise.

Total cost: $9.96

Total cost: $9.86

All of the components of this healthful one-dish dinner are roasted in the same skillet: The rice goes in first, then the salmon and broccolini. And they're all flavored with a lime, honey, and cilantro sauce. If desired, serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.

Cavolo nero (also called black kale, dinosaur kale, or lacinato kale) has a deep flavor that goes beautifully with the richness of pan-roasted duck breasts. The kale can be found at some supermarkets and at farmers' markets and natural foods stores, but any other kale variety can be substituted. Be sure to begin preparation one day ahead.

A relatively new variety, Honeycrisps have a sweet, mellow flavor. They're very juicy, and when baked long and slow, their juices bubble and caramelize. These baked apples are best served slightly warm, but they are also great served cold for breakfast the next morning, topped with a dollop of yogurt. A V-slicer makes quick work of slicing the apples, but if you don't have one, a sharp sturdy knife will do the trick.

This French-style tart deserves a sophisticated apple. Our top pick is the Braeburn, which is crisp and sweet-tart with a fruity, almost perfumed flavor. It's a perfect match for the delicate almond filling. The Gala apple makes a nice alternative.

Golden Delicious apples hold their shape even when baked at a hot temperature and wrapped in puff pastry. Their honeyed flavor adds just the right amount of sweetness to balance these slightly savory turnovers.

Apples turn sweet as they roast alongside pork loin flavored with herbs and maple syrup. Brine the roast one day ahead.

The brisket tastes best if prepared ahead, so make it at least one day and up to two days before you plan to serve it. Chilling the brisket makes it easier to slice. Rewarm the meat in the sauce and serve with a full-flavored dark beer (see our suggestions below).