The hearty pork stew known as cocido is eaten all over Spain but varies from region to region. This one comes from Liébana, the westernmost part of Cantabria, where it's traditionally served in stages—beginning with the broth and fideos (fine pasta) and followed by the meat, chickpeas, and cabbage arranged on a large platter. We prefer to eat it all together, as the broth lends a nice moistness to the other elements.
•The pig's ear, snout, or foot, available at butcher shops specializing in pork products, adds gelatin to the stew, enriching the broth, but may be omitted.
•Meats and chickpeas (but not dumplings) can be simmered 1 day ahead. Cool meats and chickpeas completely in broth, uncovered, then chill, covered once cold. Remove fat before reheating and proceeding with recipe.
•Cabbage can be boiled (but not sautéed) 1 day ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then chill, covered.
•Dumplings can be formed (but not browned) 1 day ahead. Chill, covered.
