Southern

Often called black cakes, spice cakes flavored with molasses are a perennial on the southern dessert buffet.

Pass warm biscuits, or stick with tradition and mound some cooked white rice in the center of each bowl of soup. For a nice go-with, toss shredded lettuce with artichoke hearts, sliced mushrooms and creamy buttermilk dressing. Stay with the southern theme by ending with pecan pie.

This simple white cake has a lemon curd filling and glaze. Big cakes like this are typical special-occasion desserts in the South.

"I had lunch at a historic spot in Berryville, Virginia, called the Battletown Inn," says Judy Owens of Round Hill Virginia. "For dessert, I ordered bourbon walnut pie. If chef Robin Smith would share her recipe, I know that baking the pie during the holidays would become a family tradition." The sweetness of the filling is offset nicely by the bourbon. Serve the dessert with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Throughout the South, former cotton plantations remain as large tracts of land maintained as hunting preserves. The quail is a small game bird that spends most of its time on the ground. Often called "partridge," it is favored for its delicious white flesh. Serve one of these birds to each person as an appetizer for a big celebratory meal such as Christmas or a rehearsal dinner, or two as the main course.

This classic southern dessert is very rich and sweet and should be served in small wedges.

Here is an old southern favorite that is delicious as a condiment or great added to tuna, chicken and shrimp salads. Begin preparing the pickles at least three days before you plan to serve them.

The lull between the main course and dessert is the best time to top the sweet potato pie with meringue and brown it. Cooks tempted to do this several hours ahead should be aware that the meringue will most likely weep.

The name Newman was once a staple only in Hollywood; today, it's a staple in kitchens all across the country. That is largely the result of the efforts of two people: Paul Newman, who founded the Newman's Own line of food products in 1982, and his daughter Nell, who expanded the brand with Newman's Own Organics 11 years later. All profits of both companies go to charities. And what dessert gives this giving family the greatest comfort? "Pecan pie," says Nell, whose mother—actress Joanne Woodward—grew up in the South. "I've always loved pecan pie and the smell of toasting pecans and burnt sugar that goes with it. My aunts Betty Lane and Nina still send their pecan pies up from Georgia at the holidays." This update on the sweet southern classic has the true taste of maple and some whole wheat flour in the crust.

This variation on the southern staple can be prepared easily with ingredients one usually has on hand. It's hearty, flavorful, and foolproof — a good choice when you come home from work and need supper in a hurry.

For a real southern meal, pair this dish with the bacon scallion hush puppies.

This dish is a holiday staple in Southern coastal cities. It can be served with the rest of the meal on the holiday buffet table, but my friend Marion likes to have it ready to go in the oven in case the meal is delayed and tempers get short. It soothes and warms enough to keep the hungry waiting. I'd set out little bread-and-butter plates and forks and put the casserole in the living room. Not all inland eaters have acquired a taste for oysters; they are especially delicious during winter holidays as either a traditional delicacy or exotic fare.